This should just be a reverse of what we just did, so I'll go though the steps just highlighting the more delicate aspects.

• Slip the detector card back into the box, with the detector facing the front. Again, be careful with the thin wires as you do this. It is ok to let the front of the detector card rest against the inner front of the box, nothing will touch the detector.
• Place the G10 plate+cold straps above the hole in the box and tie the lower strap to the cold finger. As mentioned in (5-d), this is awkward but just be patient. Make sure there is a good flat, tight contact with the cold finger.
• Put back the four screws 1-4 of Drawing 4. Reverse of (5-c). For the first screw you put in, you'll have to be well centered and feel the back of the detector card for the correct hole, then the others go in easy.
• Put back the screws A-D of Drawing 4. Reverse of (5-b). Make sure you make the correct choice  among the 4 sets of 4 holes at each corner of the box, so that you end up with the correct quadrant aligned on the optical axis.

• Attach the upper cold strap to the box.
• Group the cu-c wires nicely at each corner of the box, so that they all fall inside the small grove in the box. Put back the box cover. Do this carefully so that the cover does not pinch any of the wires.  Screw the cover in after you are satisfied that all the wires are clear. With some double-sided sticky tape and aluminum foil, make new little squares like the ones you removed in (4-a), and place them over the groove in the box that lets in the thin wires, so that the box remains light tight.
• Slip the box assembly back into place through the rectangular opening of the lower shield. Again, watch the wires in the cross-brace connectors as you lower the box. Also, don't leave behind the     output wires. Set the box on top of its four holes in the dewar bottom plate.
• Secure the box to the bottom of the dewar. Be sure to center it well so that the snout end is WELL CENTERED with respect to the dewar bottom plate (for good optical alingment later). Make sure that there are no wires under the cross-brace feet before you tighten the screws.
• Fish out the 4 output thin wires, place them toward the front of the dewar.
• Re-connect the DE9 and DA15 connectors.
• Re-connect the outputs of the current quadrant to their input at the amp board. Match the labels on the wires with those on the amp card. Use small pliers to make a good connection between the male  and female pins.
• Re-connect the spare outputs to the dummy socket.

• Clean the o-ring groove in the dewar bottom plate. Clean and re-grease the o-ring. Put the o-ring in the grove. Do this same cleaning-greasing on the lower dewar shell and put it in place, with the window facing in the right direction. Make sure that the shell does not pinch any of the wires inside the dewar.

• Align the support plate, bottom dewar plate and shell and screw them back together. Go around the screws turning each only a little, until they are all tight.
• Put the filter wheel shaft back in place. Tighten the outside screw.
• Clean the surface of the upper dewar half (which should still be sitting upside down on the aluminum ring) that is going to be in contact with the o-ring in the bottom half. Gently lift and turn the bottom dewar assembly over the upper half, use the 2 aluminum blocks (as in (1-b)) to leave a gap between the 2 halves.
• Re-connect the 2 cold straps to the cold plate. Make a flat, tight contact.
• Remove the al. blocks and lower the bottom half. Center the rims of the upper and lower shields well. The two shield should push against each other and the lower shield will be somewhat compressed. The front end of the snout should  touch the circular opening in the lower shield.
• Screw the 2 halves back together. Go around the screws turning each only a little, until they are all tight.